Portugalâs legendary liqueur is sweet, strong, and totally traditional. Learn the story of ginjinha in Lisbon, and the best places to try it.
Trying ginjinha in Lisbon is an essential travel experience. Youâll find this sour cherry liqueur on every list of local specialties to sampleâand on the menu at countless bars, restaurants, and street stalls across the country.
Ginjinha is almost as iconic as pastĂ©is de nata, and as much a cultural fixture as Lisbonâs azulejo tiles. Itâs tasty, affordable, and undeniably emblematic of Portuguese culture. But beneath the surface of its obvious appeal, thereâs much more to discover about this iconic drink. Once you know the full story of ginjinha, youâll have even more reason to savor every sip.
What is ginjinha?
Ginjinha is a Portuguese liqueur made from aguardente (brandy or fortified wine) thatâs been infused with sour cherries, sugar, and cinnamon. Itâs dark red, super sweet, and surprisingly strong, with an ABV of around 18â24%.
Ginjinha is sometimes also called ginja, which can be slightly confusing since this word also refers to the fruit itself: a small red berry thatâs highly acidic. In English itâs formally known as a Morello cherry. The word ginjinha may look like a mouthful, but itâs actually pretty simple. Try sounding out âjeen-jeen-yaâ and people will probably know what you mean.
Fun fact: Ginjinha is technically the diminutive form of ginja. So, itâs sort of like saying âa cute little sour cherry.â
Ginjinha is fairly easy to make; all you have to do is combine the ingredients in a bottle and then leave it alone for a matter of weeks or months. Today you can buy mass-produced ginjinha in supermarkets all over Portugal, but itâs also possible to find artisanal versionsâor try making it yourself at home!
The history of ginjinha
You could say it all began when the Romans brought ginja trees to Portugal in the first place. But just like the iconic custard tarts, ginjinha owes its existence to the church. Several centuries ago, a friar at Lisbonâs Igreja de Santo AntĂłnio decided to combine sour cherries, aguardente, sugar, and cinnamon and let it sit for a whileâthe same simple recipe used today.
Ginjinha was first sold to the public by a Galician named Francisco Espiñeira Couziño at his bar in Lisbon, A Ginjinha, which you can still visit. It quickly became a local favorite, and was even used as medicine to cure minor ailments (including for children!). In no time at all, it had cemented its status as a symbol of the city, and the country as a whole.
Youâre not likely to find younger generations of locals clustered around ginjinha bars in Lisbonâitâs more of an old-timer thingâbut these days even the most traditional places are capitalizing on the drinkâs growing appeal. As the tourism industry in Portugal has exploded in recent years, ginjinha has become a popular draw for visitors of all ages (above 18, of course).Â
How to drink ginjinha
Despite the fact that itâs served in a shot-sized glass, many people insist that ginjinha is meant to be enjoyed slowlyânot tossed back like a shot. Some people do prefer to down it in one gulp, but our advice is to start with a small sip to really experience it. The first things youâll taste are the alcohol and sugar, but the sour cherry flavor will emerge if you take your time to savor it.
You can drink ginjinha at any time of dayâincluding first thing in the morning. For some locals itâs a morning ritual, and a few of the oldest ginjinha bars in Lisbon still open as early as 7 or 8 a.m. They tend to be small, with just enough space for the bar and maybe a counter or a couple of tables to stand at.Â
At traditional ginjinha bars theyâll always ask you the same question: Com ou sem elas? This literally means âWith or without them?âââthemâ being the cherries that are bobbing around in the bottle. If you want a couple of these sour fermented fruits dropped into your glass, say âcom elas.â Just make sure to watch out for the pits.
Localâs tip: Bring a pack of hand wipes; this can be a sticky experience.
Where to try ginjinha in Lisbon
Itâs not hard to find ginjinha in Portugal. Most restaurants and bars stock it. Youâll also see it on the shelves of supermarkets and specialty shops alikeâbut the best place to try it for the first time is at a traditional bar. Here are a few of our favorite places to drink ginjinha in Lisbon.
A Ginjinha
This was the first bar to sell ginjinha in Lisbon, and is a designated Loja Com HistĂłria (historic shop). A Ginjinha has been pouring its signature sour cherry liqueur, Espinheira Ginja, since 1840.
Itâs located in a large square close to the Rossio train station, right in the heart of downtown Lisbon. Itâs open every day from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. You can also pick up a whole bottle of ginjinha to take home, com ou sem elas (with or without cherries).
Ginjinha Sem Rival
Located just down the street from A Ginjinha, this is another of Lisbonâs original ginjinha bars. Ginjinha Sem Rival (which literally means âginjinha without rivalâ) has been here for well over a century, and is also a Loja Com HistĂłria.
In addition to its own brand of ginjinha, it sells Eduardino, a unique liqueur that combines ginja with anise and other aromatics. Itâs named after a clown who used to frequent the shop in the early 1900s. Apparently, he came up with the recipe. Right then, in 1908, Eduardino became a registered trademark. In the bottle, you can see an illustration of his creator.
Localâs tip: Order from the counter and then enjoy your drink at one of the high tables outside. Perfect for people watching.
Ginjinha da Ribeira
The name of this place refers to the fact that itâs set within the Mercado da Ribeira, a historic market in Cais do SodrĂ©, that now houses the modern Time Out Market too.
Ginjinha da Ribeira has an outdoor seating area where you can sip your ginjinha and snack on other treats like pastries and sandwiches. Unlike the other two places on this list, here you can also get ginjinha in an edible chocolate cup (more on that below). It may not be as historic, but itâs a great choice if you want to sit down, relax, and maybe enjoy some other food and drinks as well.
Localâs tip: Right next door youâll find Manteigaria, one of the best places to try custard tarts in Lisbon.Â
Ginja de Ăbidos
Although ginjinha is traditionally consumed on its own, there are plenty of other ways to serve it. The most common one was created in Ăbidos, a town about an hour north of Lisbon thatâs famous for its locally produced ginjinha (usually called ginja de Ăbidos).
Several years ago, someone there had the idea to start serving it in edible chocolate cups meant to be devoured immediately after finishing the drink. This may not be very traditional, but itâs definitely delicious.
If you have time for a day trip from Lisbon, Ăbidos is a great choice. Itâs small enough to explore in just a few hours, and its pretty streets are lined with book shops and ginjinha bars selling the local specialty.
If youâre visiting in summer, see if your trip coincides with the annual Ăbidos Ginja Festival, held in nearby Amoreira, and/or the whimsical Medieval Fair of Ăbidos.Â
According to the official website of Ăbidos, ginja should be served âas an aperitif or a digestive after-dinner drink, at a temperature between 15 and 17ÂșC (59 and 63ÂșF) or on hot days slightly chilled,â and adds that it âmay be used in cocktails and cooking.â
Cocktails with ginjinha
Many places in Portugal do indeed serve ginjinha-based mixed drinks, like the simple ginja tonic (ginjinha and tonic water). Another variation resembles a mojito, mixing the liqueur with mint, crushed ice, and soda water.
Youâll also find craft cocktails that make use of ginjinha. Lisbonâs renowned Red Frog Speakeasy has a signature drink called the Spiced Rusty Cherry that combines it with spiced rum, port wine, and cherry shrub. And at the beautiful Gin Lovers Bar & Restaurant, you can try Gin JĂĄâa mix of gin and ginja in one bottleâin a cocktail with lime tonic, cinnamon, and lemon.
Where to buy ginjinha by the bottle
A bottle of ginjinha makes for a fantastic souvenir from Lisbon, and a great giftâbut where should you buy it?
We suggest either grabbing a bottle straight from one of the three bars mentioned above. Another option is going to a supermarket or gourmet shop. Choose an authentic brand like Espinheira, Mariquinhas, or Vila das Rainhas to ensure the highest quality. All of these are widely available at stores around Lisbon.
You canât leave Lisbon without trying ginjinha. Weâve got you covered on our Tastes & Traditions of Lisbon Food Tour, which includes a stop at one of our favorite ginjinha bars. Try it for yourself and decide whether youâre team âcom elasâ or team âsem elasâ! Youâll also enjoy two other drinks and 9 tastes, all from small businesses in Lisbon.Â