It won’t take you long after arriving in Lisbon to notice Portugal’s affinity for sugar. At local cafés, glass display cases show off everything from cookies and cakes to colorful tarts. The most iconic among them is the pastel de nata: a flaky pastry shell filled with sweet egg custard.
You might also hear these treats described as pastéis de nata (pastéis is the plural form of pastel) or pastéis de Belém (more on that in a bit). And many visitors know them simply as custard tarts—though we think it’s certainly worth learning their name in Portuguese.
Considering the fact that locals and tourists alike can’t get enough of these sweets, it’s no surprise that you’ll find them everywhere from supermarkets to historic cafés. Luckily, we’ve got some inside info on where to get the most delicious pastéis de nata. Here are the 6 best places to try custard tarts in Lisbon, according to locals.
Pastéis de Belém
Begin your custard tart quest in the neighborhood where it all began: Belém. During the Liberal Revolution of the 19th century, monasteries and convents began shutting down. To help raise money, the monks from Belém’s Mosteiro dos Jerónimos started selling pastries in the sugar refinery next door.
Their pastéis de nata recipe made use of leftover egg yolks (they used the egg whites to starch laundry) to create a rich custard filling. Eventually the owner of the sugar refinery bought the recipe from the monks and opened Pastéis de Belém, the famous café where you can still try the original recipe for custard tarts in Lisbon.
This history explains why pastéis de nata are sometimes called pastéis de Belém. Technically the ones made here are the only true pastéis de Belém, but in reality the two terms are often used interchangeably. Now for the big question: Is the original recipe the best?
We’ll leave that up to you to decide… but it’s certainly smart to try several for comparison. What we do know is that it’s absolutely worth making the journey to Belém to try these particular custard tarts:
- From Lisbon’s city center you can take public transportation–the bus, train, or tram–down the river to Belém.
- If you’d rather drive or use a ridesharing service, it’s 15–20 minutes away by car.
- And if you’re up for a long (but scenic) walk, it’ll take you about an hour and 15 minutes on foot.
Manteigaria
If you ask a local where to try custard tarts in Lisbon, chances are they’ll mention Manteigaria. Apart from Pastéis de Belém, this is the most famous place specializing in pastéis de nata—and many people swear that it has the best in the city. The original storefront is in Chiado near Praça de Luís de Camões, but there are now locations all over Lisbon (and Porto too).
The name of this bakery pays tribute to Manteigaria União, the former occupant of the original location in Chiado, which once supplied butter to the entire city. But it also hints at the recipe, which relies on butter (manteiga in Portuguese) to create an exceptionally flaky pastry crust.
Pastéis de nata are the only thing on the menu at Manteigaria, other than a selection of drinks. You can either order your pastries to go or grab an espresso and watch the bakers work their magic in the kitchen. A pastel de nata plus coffee makes for the perfect minimalistic breakfast in Lisbon, although it’s also a great afternoon snack or late-night indulgence.
Insider’s tip:
- Don’t forget to sprinkle the top of your custard tart with cinnamon and/or powdered sugar; you can grab packets of each if you take your pastries to go.
Confeitaria Nacional
Confeitaria Nacional is not only an excellent place to try pastéis de nata, but also a picturesque landmark. Open since 1829, it’s considered Lisbon’s oldest pastry shop. You’ll find it in Praça da Figueira, inside a grand Pombaline-style building (most of this area was rebuilt after the 1755 earthquake in the Pombaline architectural style, which is notably earthquake resistant).
The pastéis de nata here are made with a recipe that’s nearly two hundred years old, credited to the founder of Confeitaria Nacional, Balthazar Castanheiro. Although they’re not quite as famous as the ones from Pastéis de Belém, they’ve been around for almost as long.
There’s much more on offer here than just custard tarts; you’ll also find plenty of traditional Portuguese pastries like pão de Deus (a sweet bun with coconut topping), almendrados (almond cookies), and bolos de arroz (small cakes made with rice flour). Order a coffee, a pastel de nata, and maybe a couple of other treats and enjoy the café’s ornate decor.
Insider’s tip:
- Can’t wait until you get to Lisbon? Make our Portuguese custard tarts recipe at home.
Versailles
Located in the business district of Saldanha, Versailles has been open for more than a century. It’s known not only for its decadent custard tarts, but also its unusually long pastry counter (which some say is the longest in Lisbon) and Art Nouveau style.
The dining room is decked out with large mirrors, sparkling chandeliers, and intricate wood paneling, and the staff’s snappy uniforms add to the romantic old-world effect.
Versailles also offers savory snacks, lunch, and dinner, but the highlight has to be its incredible pastries. Beyond the classic pastel de nata, you’ll also find a truly stunning selection of treats, from homemade ice cream and marzipan fruits to seasonal sweets like bolo rei (king cake) and folar de Páscoa (a traditional Easter bread).
Castro
Castro is more than just a pastry shop; it’s an “atelier” specializing in custard tarts and nothing else. This place proudly claims to have a perfectly balanced recipe, with a filling that’s not too sweet and an especially crispy crust.
According to its website, each pastel de nata should be eaten in three bites—though some people prefer to scoop out the custard with a spoon and eat the pastry shell separately—and, crucially, always served warm.
You can visit either of Castro’s two locations in downtown Lisbon to pick up one or two pastéis de nata or a larger box to share. Pair your pastry with coffee, tea, hot chocolate, or something stronger—the menu also includes Port wine and ginja (cherry liqueur).
Vegan Nata
Lisbon has been named one of the world’s most vegan-friendly cities, but the idea of an authentic plant-based pastel de nata might still sound unlikely. After all, its main ingredients include eggs, butter, and milk. Enter Vegan Nata.
This was the first place in Portugal to popularize a vegan version of the traditional custard tart, and it’s been winning over the doubters ever since. Today you’ll find plant-based pastéis de nata at more than one vegan bakery around Lisbon, but Vegan Nata’s recipe reigns supreme.
It’s nearly indistinguishable from the version sold right down the street at Manteigaria—and some non-vegans even swear that they like it better. If you’re looking for a lactose-free, egg-free, or more sustainable pastel de nata, look no further.
Update Notice: This post was updated on July 8, 2024.
No matter how much time you have in Lisbon, there are certain things you can’t leave without seeing. On our Best of Lisbon Walking Tour, you’ll check all of them off your list over the course of one fascinating day. Get early access at the Jerónimos Monastery, enjoy a relaxing river cruise with spectacular views of the city, explore Lisbon’s historic neighborhoods, and savor some delicious Portuguese classics (including the original custard tarts)!
