Let’s say you’re in San Sebastian and searching for the best restaurants. And now let’s say you either don’t want to break the bank on a pricey restaurant bill or you can’t get a reservation at one of the many Michelin-starred restaurants in this seaside Basque city.
Well, you’re in luck. San Sebastian has a legion of great eating options that are not part of the constellation of stars that the French tire company has bestowed upon this city. After all, a lot of Michelin-starred restaurants are alike in some ways.
They have to conform to what Michelin likes. And Michelin likes expensive prix-fixe tasting menus that take hours to get through. Not that this is a bad thing but we’re not always in the mood for such decadence. Here are the best non-Michelin-starred restaurants in San Sebastian.
Why is San Sebastian known for its cuisine?
The reason why San Sebastian is such a good food mecca is because of New Basque Cuisine. In the 1970s, chefs Juan Marie Arzak and Pedro Subiana, of Arzak and Akelarre, respectively (both of which have three stars each, by the way), decided to apply the techniques of French Nouvelle cuisine to Basque fare. After some experimenting, they arrived at a Basque cuisine that was unique, elevated, and, best of all, delicious.
And eating in the Basque country, in general, and San Sebastian, in particular, was never the same again. The world has rushed in, forks in hand, to try it. It has been so pervasive to Basque culinary culture that it has trickled down to nearly every restaurant and pintxo bar in the region.
Which is why one need not step foot in a Michelin-starred restaurant when visiting San Sebastian. You can stick your fork into a large number of eateries and bars and you’ll eat very well.
The best non-Michelin star restaurants in San Sebastian
Rita
Located in Egia, just south of Gros and not far from the city’s main railway station, Rita is an incredible off-the-radar restaurant. Ismael Iglesia might be the best chef you’ve never heard of. The flavor-popping fare here is so good, you’ll think he’s somehow sprinkling culinary steroids into the dishes just before being whisked out to your table.
If you don’t feel like making any decisions, there’s a 7-course tasting menu at a reasonable price. Or there’s the popular a la carte option. Standouts include mushroom stuffed raviolis with foie gras and chickpea cream, Iberian pork jowl on toast with anchovies from Santoña (i.e. the world’s best anchovies), and beef tartare.
Muka
Brought to you by chef Andoni Luis Aduriz, whose legendary San Sebastian restaurant Mugaritz has two Michelin stars. Muka is the ideal spot to eat dishes created by a Michelin-chef without forking off heaps of cash.
Muka is set between the Urumea River and the Kursaal conference center in the middle of San Sebastian. Here you can tuck into a 10-course tasting menu for a bargain price. Or go a la carte with dishes like razor clams in a tangy salsa verde, ultra-tender braised brisket with mushrooms, and roasted cod sprinkled with tempura’d garlic.
Astarbe Sagardotegia
The hills around San Sebastian are sprinkled with sidrerias, or cider houses. The Basques make some of the best cider on the planet, so it’s worth your while to seek out a cider house for at least one meal while here.
Astarbe is four miles from the center of town and is accessible by car or public transportation. For one reasonable price, visitors get a full meal that includes cod, eggs, bread, salad, cheese, and plenty of cider poured straight from the barrel. Think of it as a Basque version of a German beer hall.
Narru
Set between the Concha and the river, Narru is a sophisticated and sedate place to enjoy a meal. If it’s on the menu, don’t skip the oxtail stuffed ravioli drizzled with foie gras and sprinkled with truffles.
Nor should you pass up the hake chin (or kokotxas, in the local parlance), a Basque staple. You can also literally eat snout to tail here, as Narru does two lovely dishes—one pork snout, the other pork tail—that you can brag about later to your foodie friends.
Casa Urola
Located on the sometimes lively Fermin Calbetón Street in the old part of San Sebastian, Casa Urola is a favorite among locals and in-the-know visitors. When you walk in, you’ll be met by an oft-crowded pintxos bar. If you don’t fancy a sitdown dinner, you can’t go wrong with the pintxos here.
Pro-tip: order anything off the hand-written warm pintxos menu scribbled on a tablet of paper on the wall.
If you do want a sitdown meal, head upstairs for a menu of über-seasonal delights. The menu changes with the season but expect dishes like grilled octopus paired with tender pork jowl, candied paquillo peppers, and Galician clams in a salsa verde.
Asador Portuetxe
Located two and a half miles southwest of the Concha, Asador Portuetxe is worth the trek. The culinary altar here is the grill. Since 1982, the barbecue masters at this asador have been grilling everything from whole fish to massive cuts of high-quality steak.
Start out with some jamon Iberico from Jabugo, the epicenter of ham in Spain, and some white asparagus (if it’s in season) before moving on to grilled hake, grilled cod, grilled oysters, grilled lobster … you get the idea.
Basqueland Izakaia
If you need a pause from excellent Basque and Spanish fare, you can pivot to excellent Asian fare. Brought to you by the Basqueland Brewery, Basqueland Izakaia is located in Gros, just a few steps from the river and the Kursaal conference center.
You can sip on freshly made beer (they have wine too) while indulging in pan-Asian delights like ramen, pork buns, meat-stuffed wontons, and various other dishes.
Update Notice: This blog post was updated on June 10, 2024.
Want to try your hand at cooking local dishes? Join our Authentic Basque Cooking Class in San Sebastian! You’ll step into a restaurant kitchen and get hands-on with the Basque Country’s iconic cuisine in a small-group cooking experience.
Dadly we have just dined in restaurant Sebastian down by the harbour in San sebastian. The waiter very definitely told us the days special was sole & it was €26.00 for two people. There are 5 of us. We decided to have two specials a salad & a bottle of local red wine. We got bread & water also. The bill was 177.90 …we are horrified. The waiter says it was turbot we ordered. One of our travelling companions is a fluent spanish speaker.
We had such a wonderful experience to dste this is a dreadful dissapointment. We will spread the word through out our facebook contacts and social media. Two of us are Californians.
What a shameful thing to do to tourists in your city.
So sorry to hear about your experience, Margaret! What restaurant were you at? We hope you don’t judge the restaurants of the whole city by this one bad apple!
Great blog! I am loving it!! Will come back again. I am bookmarking your feeds also. Ferdinanda Mile Manchester
Thanks for reading, Ferdinanda!