A Love Letter to Paris: Rue Paul Bert

This post is part of our Love Letter series: first-person accounts of what we love about Paris.

It was a grey mid-December day, but it still seemed like I could see all of Paris.

There I stood, nose to floor-to-ceiling window of a sixth floor, one-bedroom on rue Paul Bert in the 11th arrondissement, contemplating signing a two year lease.

“If you don’t take this apartment, you’re crazy,” said my friend who’d come with me to see it for a second time.

I was having doubts. Not only because it was on the sixth floor—sans elevator—but because it was in a part of the 11th I wasn’t familiar with. I couldn’t even pronounce the closest metro stop: Faidherbe-Chaligny.

“I’m telling you, Sara,” she urged, “This is a great deal on an amazing street. And look at this view!”

She had a point. Being this high up produced tremendous light even on a dreary day.

“But wait, how do you pronounce the stop again?”

“Fay-dayrb Sha-lyn-ee,” she said slowly.

And she’d continue to do so, again and again, once I decided to sign on the dotted line.

Rue Paul Bert is the most exciting street in Paris you've never heard of.

Photo Credit: Sara Lieberman, Text Overlay: Devour Paris Food Tours

Rue Paul Bert

Now, over two years later, I am not only in love with chez moi and its sunset views, slanted walls and vis a vis neighborly quirks, but the street it’s located on, too.

Named after a popular physiologist and politician from the late 1800s, the one-way street is short in length, but mighty in offerings. Aside from a handful of merchants that provide everyday services and goods—there’s a wine shop, a tailor, a nail salon, a laundromat, a well-stocked supermarket and a pharmacy—there are a host of speciality stores and establishments; many of which make it a destination in its own right.

For starters, and conveniently located downstairs for mornings when I’m out of beans, there’s Nomade coffee shop whose atypically large, light-filled space is WiFi-friendly and at-the-ready with speciality brews.

Nomade is the best coffee shop on Rue Paul Bert, and one of our favorites in the city.
Cafés are a dime a dozen in Paris, but few compare to Nomade. Photo credit: Sara Lieberman

Across the street, Terroirs d’Avenir sells artisanal produce, cheeses, meats and other unique food items (hello, edible flowers!) to those who fancy themselves a gourmand. And on days when you don’t feel like getting your Alain Passard on, they have daily soup and sandwich specials such as a creamy turnip velouté or goat cheese, olive tapenade, sliced radish and shredded carrots on a baguette.

Terroirs d'Avenir on Rue Paul Bert in Paris is full of fresh, local products.
Terroirs d’Avenir is so much more than a place to buy fresh, local products—it’s a true foodie paradise. Photo credit: Sara Lieberman

One of the city’s most popular French bistros, Bistrot Paul Bert, is smack dab in the middle of the block, which is great for visiting friends who inevitably want a plate of steak-frites. (They also do an incredible sole meunière.) Service, however, can be stereotypically snippy, so I prefer venturing over to La Cave du Paul Bert (16 Rue Paul Bert) or Le 6 Paul Bert for service with a smile—or at least a smirk. La Cave is all about natural wines and small shared plates, while Le 6 is more gastronomic, with a menu that changes weekly based on seasonal products.

If you're looking for a timeless French bistro on Rue Paul Bert in Paris, La Cave is calling your name.
La Cave du Paul Bert is the classic Parisian bistro at its finest. Photo credit: Sara Lieberman

Further down, there’s a darling boutique appropriately called Paul & Bertine that sells an array of floral dresses, wide-leg trousers, ruffly blouses and dainty jewelry—all mostly from Parisian brands. To avoid going up a size, I only pop in on days when I haven’t eaten the special “hamsburger” sandwich on an olive roll from new-to-the-block Ham’s Maison de Jambons, a pork specialist whose charcuterie selection always makes me wanna get piggy with it.

Paul & Bertine is one of our favorite fashion boutiques on Rue Paul Bert in Paris.
Paul & Bertine is the perfect spot to experience a genuine Parisian boutique while shopping responsibly—we love their selection of local designs. Photo credit: Sara Lieberman

Finally, there’s what I like to call the “Cyril Lignac Triangle.” The chef and baker has not one, but three establishments at the end of the block, starting with his pâtisserie where my guilty pleasure is a buttery chausson au pommes. His chocolaterie is a great place to sit and read over a warm cup of hot cocoa, while the newly-refurbished restaurant Le Chardenoux serves elevated bistro fare in a truly regal setting.

Cyril Lignac, one of the top chefs and bakers in Paris, has a trio of divine eateries on Rue Paul Bert.
The iconic French chef Cyril Lignac has transformed a corner of Rue Paul Bert into a gastronomic wonderland. Photo credit: Sara Lieberman

So you see, there’s enough here not to go anywhere. But Paris is full of charm, so I do venture occasionally—especially now that I can pronounce the metro stop like a pro.

There’s so much to love about living on one of Paris’s most beautiful and lively streets, but the views are definitely one of the best parts. Photo credit: Sara Lieberman

2 Comment

  1. May 27, 2019 at 6:23 pm

    Wonderful Parisian flavour

    1. Devour Tours says
      May 28, 2019 at 4:07 pm

      Absolutely, Anthony!

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