A Guide to the Rome Capitoline Museums

Two large stone buildings in a Roman piazza with a statue of a man on horseback in the center of the square.

One of the first places you’ll stumble upon when you visit Rome is most likely the Piazza Campidoglio. This round piazza was designed by Michelangelo and is marked by the looming statues of Castor and Pollux. Here you’ll find Rome’s famous town hall, but also two palazzi that make up the Rome Capitoline Museums. It […]

An Art Historian’s Guide to the Best Art Museums in Rome

Statue the Rape of Persephone by Bernini.

It could take a lifetime to visit all of the art museums in Rome. In fact, the Italian capital has hundreds of museums, from those owned by the State, those managed by the city, those still belonging to noble families of Rome, and then of course the Vatican. The art you can admire in Rome […]

Rome Then & Now: The Truth about Fettuccine Alfredo

The original fettuccine Alfredo, made with just Parmesan cheese, pepper and butter.

This blog post was originally posted on September 27, 2019 and was updated on January 29, 2021. Fettuccine Alfredo—the real thing, anyway—is served at just two restaurants in Italy, but its popularity has exploded abroad. Everyone has heard of fettuccine Alfredo, sometimes called “Alfredo pasta” abroad. It’s so popular outside Italy that when I lived […]

Behind the Bite: Roman Pasta

Carbonara pasta with red wine

This blog post was originally posted on March 18, 2019 and was updated on January 26, 2021. There’s something comforting about the dependable, the quotidian, the downright normal. Roman pasta is just that. Amatriciana, carbonara, gricia and cacio e pepe are the main pastas of Rome, and most restaurants have at least two of them on the […]

Our Favorite Rome Restaurants by Neighborhood: Where to Eat in Trastevere

Every night, hungry bar-hoppers stop at Trapizzino in Trastevere for a sandwich and a craft beer

This blog post was originally posted on February 6, 2019 and was updated on October 28, 2020. Trastevere is Rome’s most charming neighborhood, and that’s saying a lot. A bit overrun with tourists and students, yes—but no one who’s walked its winding streets can deny there’s something magical about it. The word Trastevere literally means […]

Perfect Italian Tiramisu Recipe

Tiramisù on a plate

Quite appropriately, “tiramisu” translates to something along the lines of “pick me up.” And that’s exactly what it is—a sweet pick-me-up that’s well worth saving space for, no matter how much carbonara or cacio e pepe you may have already eaten. Coffee-dipped ladyfinger cookies and sweet, fluffy mascarpone come together in a beautiful symphony of […]

Best Pizza Bianca Recipe (From One of Rome’s Best Pizzerias)

Slices of pizza bianca at the Testaccio Market in Rome

Pizza bianca is pizza at its simplest. There’s no bright red tomato sauce, no cheese, and no fancy toppings. Pizza bianca (which translates to “white pizza”) is as simple as it gets: fresh-baked focaccia topped with nothing more than olive oil, salt, and sesame seeds or rosemary if you’re feeling adventurous. But don’t let the […]

Best-Ever Traditional Roman Carbonara Recipe

Carbonara pasta with red wine

Forget everything you think you know about carbonara. Outside of Italy, carbonara pastas are often unrecognizable. Drenched in a thick cream sauce and studded with peas and bacon, these international adaptations are a far cry from the traditional carbonara recipe used in Rome. But here in the Eternal City, real carbonara is one of the […]

The 10 Best Pasta Dishes to Eat in Rome Before You Die

Pasta alla gricia

This blog post was originally posted on March 28, 2019 and was updated on September 29, 2020. Pasta is the gorgeous yellow ribbon that binds Italian cuisine together, and no trip to Rome would be complete without it. Every region of Italy has at least one traditional pasta dish to its name. And with a […]

7 Unknown Restaurants Where the Locals Eat in Rome

Spaghetti carbonara served on a white plate with a stemless glass of red wine in the background

This blog post was originally posted on March 4, 2019 and was updated on September 23, 2020. As famous as its sights and museums are, Rome is a city of millions of ordinary people, most of whom have a favorite local restaurant “Eating like a local” is a phrase thrown around a lot in travel […]

The Top 5 Spots for Cacio e Pepe in Rome You Need to Try ASAP

Cacio e pepe pasta

This blog post was originally posted on February 2, 2019 and was updated on September 8, 2020. Cacio e pepe is the classic flavor of Rome, and one of its best and most beloved dishes. Cacio is Roman dialect for “cheese”—in this case, assertive sheep’s-milk pecorino romano—and pepe is black pepper. Put it all together, […]

How to Read an Italian Menu (And Order Like a Local)

Plate of carbonara pasta

One of the best parts of traveling is experiencing the culture through food, and in many cases, eating out can be the highlight of your trip.  But how are you supposed to eat like a local if you don’t understand how to order off the menu? While understanding how to read an Italian menu can […]

Classic Roman Cacio e Pepe Recipe

Cacio e pepe pasta

Forget bolognese, and cast carbonara aside. When you’re in Rome, the first pasta you need to try is cacio e pepe. This is Roman cooking at its best. Just take a handful of ingredients, cook them with love, and you get one delicious dish. Cacio e pepe means “cheese and pepper” in Italian, and that’s […]

How to Use Rome’s Public Transportation System

Tram on the streets of Rome

Your complete guide to how to use and buy tickets for the metro, buses and trams in Rome. Between strikes, buses breaking down, and the never-ending project of building the third metro line, Rome’s public transportation system is not the most user friendly. And with its concentrated historic center and a monument around every corner, […]

A Primer on Tap Water in Rome

Drinking fountain in Rome

We’re not kidding—water is a cultural object in Rome, and there’s a whole etiquette on how to drink it.  When one drives into Rome from the surrounding countryside, one is greeted by a series of still-standing aqueducts. Their iconic shape—linked, multi-level arches—serves as a reminder of how important they were, and still are, to the […]

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