Peixinhos da Horta in Lisbon: Origins & Where to Find It

Crispy, golden, and steeped in centuries of culinary history, peixinhos da horta in Lisbon are more than just a tasty snack—they’re a bite-sized link between Portugal and Japan. Let’s explore the story behind this iconic dish and where to try the best peixinhos da horta in Lisbon today.

Crispy golden peixinhos da horta next to tangy dipping sauce.
Crispy and golden: a perfect plate of peixinhos da horta in Lisbon. Photo credit: Hungry Dudes

Long before tempura became a Japanese staple, these humble fried green beans were fueling Portuguese sailors on their epic voyages across the globe. Ready to follow in their crispy footsteps? Let’s learn all about this tasty appetizer!

The Origins of Peixinhos da Horta

Peixinhos da horta, translated as “little fishes of the garden,” is a flour-battered and fried green bean dish that sailors ate because it was preserved for a long time.

As you might have guessed, the origins of tempura, in general, and peixinhos da horta, in particular, are rooted in religious observations. The Portuguese would eat these “little fishes from the garden” during Lent when meat was strictly verboten. Sailors often traveled with peixinhos da horta because they preserved for a long time during sea journeys. But how did it get to Japan?

people walking through a plaza near restaurants in Evora, Portugal
In Portugal, it’s traditional to give up meat for Lent. Photo credit: Vitor Oliveira
  • In August 1543, a ship bound for Ningbo, China was carrying about 100 Chinese seafarers and a few Portuguese explorers who were hitching a ride on the ship as they sailed toward Asia, intent on discovering Asian trade markets to make Portugal even more lucrative. 
  • Two of those Portuguese sailors were Francisco Zeimato and Antonio da Mota. While they were on their months-long voyage, they were probably snacking on dishes like peixinhos da horta.
  • On the 25 of August in 1543, instead of ending up in China, the boat was blown off course by a violent storm and they found themselves instead on the island of Tanegashima. During their first encounters with the locals, Zeimato and da Mota assumed the people who greeted them on the island were Chinese.
  • They’d soon learn, though, that the locals were Japanese and they’d just discovered a new trade market. It didn’t take long for word to get back to Portugal and soon enough, there was a Portuguese trading post set up on mainland Japan. And world culinary history was about to be indelibly changed. 
Crispy fried tempura on a ceramic plate.
This humble green bean dish helped inspire Japan’s beloved tempura. Photo credit: Genri Kura

“Southern Barbarians” Arrive

These two “southern barbarians,” as the Japanese called them, were the first Europeans to ever step on Japanese soil. The sailors happened to arrive at an opportune time, as Japan was in the middle of a civil war and Portugal happened to have a legion of guns to trade.

They introduced the Japanese to firearms, altering the country permanently. In fact, to this day there’s an annual festival called the Tanegashima Gun Festival that celebrates this momentous occasion.

The Portuguese ended up staying a while—96 years, to be exact. It turns out, the one thing the Japanese didn’t want from the Portuguese was their religion, so the ruling shogun, Takugawa Iemtsu, banished the Portuguese from Japan for doggedly proselytizing Christianity to the locals.

Crispy golden fried green beans.
Once sailor food, now a beloved appetizer across Portugal. Photo credit: Hungry Dudes

The Portuguese Exit, But Without One Important Thing…

After nearly a century of influence on the Island, the Portuguese left a few cultural relics behind in Japan—in addition to guns, there was tobacco, wool, and soap. But there was one other thing that has changed Japan’s culinary history ever since: the recipe for that Portuguese fried green bean dish called peixinhos da horta that Portuguese sailors often snacked on while at sea.

After the Portuguese sailed away for good, the Japanese took the recipe and altered it, using the batter to coat many other vegetables and meats. The Portuguese had referred to this cooking technique as tempora, a Latin word referencing the fasting times during Lent. The Japanese of course, called it tempura and the cuisine of this island nation would never be the same.

Today, of course, you can find tempura anywhere in Japan and at most Japanese restaurants around the world. And if you’re in Portugal, peixinhos da horta is a fairly common item on restaurant menus. Order some and bite into the crispy fried green bean knowing that you’re taking a bite into culinary history.

People eating petiscos in Portugal.
Peixinhos da horta are the perfect petisco.

Where in Lisbon to Try Peixinhos da Horta

If you are looking for where to eat while in Lisbon and want to take a bite of crispy peixinhos da horta, here are four places to try. 

People at a restaurant in Portugal cheering wine glasses and drinking Portuguese beers.
Peixinhos da horta pairs great with a glass of white wine.

Tascardoso

For over three decades Tascardoso has been frying up excellent peixinhos da horta on a small street just off Praca do Principe Real. It’s a beautiful location you won’t want to miss!

📍 Location: Rua de O Século 242

tiled building with a flowering vine growing on it.
The charming exterior of Tascardoso. Photo Credit: Oh Lisboa

Coelho da Rocha

Set in Campo de Ourique, Coelho da Rocha is a meat-lovers paradise but also does one of the city’s best versions of peixinhos da horta.

📍 Location: R. Coelho da Rocha 104

white-covered tables with chairs at a bar in a restaurant.
Try peixinhos da horta at Coelho da Rocha. Photo Credit: Time Out Lisbon

Pateo do Petisco

With a few locations sprinkled around Lisbon, Pateo do Petisco has a menu of classic Portuguese snacks, including little fishes from the garden.

People eating at restaurants in Sintra at a table with ceramic plates and glasses of wine.
Peixinhos da horta are the perfect bite for sharing.

Tapa Bucho

Serving up small plates in the Bairro Alto, Tapa Bucho is a perfect place to snack on peixinhos da horta and other Iberian delights.

📍 Location: R. do Diário de Notícias 122

several dishes of Portuguese food on a wooden table.
Tapa Bucho serves Portuguese-inspired cuisine with an international flair. Photo Credit: Tapa Bucho

Explore the Culinary History of Portugal

Want to taste more of Portugal’s culinary history—beyond just peixinhos da horta in Lisbon? Join us on our Ultimate Lisbon Food & History Tour of Baixa & Chiado to uncover the flavors that define the city. From sipping cherry liqueur in a 130-year-old shop to tasting the best pork sandwich in town and discovering Portugal’s love affair with canned fish, this immersive tour takes you deep into the heart of Lisbon’s food culture. And yes—you’ll end on a sweet note with one of the best pastéis de nata in the city.

people sitting at a dinner table and toasting with drinks.
Taste the best of Bairro Alto with us on tour. Photo Credit: Giulia Verdinelli

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Peixinhos da Horta in Lisbon FAQs

What are peixinhos da horta?

Peixinhos da horta (“little fish from the garden”) are battered and fried green beans, one of Portugal’s oldest and most beloved petiscos. Despite the name, the dish contains no fish—the green beans are said to resemble small fried fish.

Did peixinhos da horta inspire Japanese tempura?

Yes. Food historians widely believe that Portuguese missionaries and sailors introduced the cooking technique to Japan in the 16th century. The Japanese adapted the batter-frying method into what is now known as tempura, making peixinhos da horta an important part of culinary history.

Where can you find the best peixinhos da horta in Lisbon?

Many traditional taverns (tascas) and petisco bars throughout Lisbon serve peixinhos da horta, particularly restaurants specializing in classic Portuguese cuisine. They’re often offered as a shared appetizer alongside other traditional small plates and pair well with Portuguese wine or beer.

Are peixinhos da horta vegetarian?

Yes, peixinhos da horta are typically vegetarian, as they’re made with green beans coated in a light batter and fried until crisp. However, the batter usually contains egg, so the dish is not traditionally vegan unless specifically prepared without it.

What do you eat with peixinhos da horta?

Peixinhos da horta are commonly served as a petisco (Portuguese small plate) before a meal or alongside other shared dishes. They pair especially well with tomato rice, bean rice, fresh salads, and a crisp Portuguese white wine or an ice-cold beer.