Crispy, golden, and steeped in centuries of culinary history, peixinhos da horta in Lisbon are more than just a tasty snack—they’re a bite-sized link between Portugal and Japan.
Long before tempura became a Japanese staple, these humble fried green beans were fueling Portuguese sailors on their epic voyages across the globe. Ready to follow in their crispy footsteps? Let’s explore the story behind this iconic dish and where to try the best peixinhos da horta in Lisbon today.
The origins of peixinhos da horta
In August 1543, a ship bound for Ningbo, China was carrying ab0ut 100 Chinese seafarers and a few Portuguese explorers who were hitching a ride on the ship as they sailed toward Asia, intent on discovering Asian trade markets to make Portugal even more lucrative.
- Two of those Portuguese sailors were Francisco Zeimato and Antonio da Mota. While they were on their months-long voyage, they were probably snacking on dishes like peixinhos da horta, translated as “little fishes of the garden,” a flour-battered and fried green bean dish that sailors ate because it was preserved for a long time.
- On the 25 of August in 1543, instead of ending up in China, the boat was blown off course by a violent storm and they found themselves instead on the island of Tanegashima. During their first encounters with the locals, Zeimato and da Mota assumed the people who greeted them on the island were Chinese.
- They’d soon learn, though, that the locals were Japanese and they’d just discovered a new trade market. It didn’t take long for word to get back to Portugal and soon enough, there was a Portuguese trading post set up on mainland Japan. And world culinary history was about to be indelibly changed.
“Southern barbarians” arrive
These two “southern barbarians,” as the Japanese called them, were the first Europeans to ever step on Japanese soil. The sailors happened to arrive at an opportune time, as Japan was in the middle of a civil war and Portugal happened to have a legion of guns to trade.
They introduced the Japanese to firearms, altering the country permanently. In fact, to this day there’s an annual festival called the Tanegashima Gun Festival that celebrates this momentous occasion.
The Portuguese ended up staying a while—96 years, to be exact. It turns out, the one thing the Japanese didn’t want from the Portuguese was their religion, so the ruling shogun, Takugawa Iemtsu, banished the Portuguese from Japan for doggedly proselytizing Christianity to the locals.
Portuguese exit but without one important thing
After nearly a century of influence on the Island, the Portuguese left a few cultural relics behind in Japan—in addition to guns, there was tobacco, wool, and soap. But there was one other thing that has changed Japan’s culinary history ever since: the recipe for that Portuguese fried green bean dish called peixinhos da horta that Portuguese sailors often snacked on while at sea.
- After the Portuguese sailed away for good, the Japanese took the recipe and altered it, using the batter to coat many other vegetables and meats. The Portuguese had referred to this cooking technique as tempora, a Latin word referencing the fasting times during Lent. The Japanese of course, called it tempura and the cuisine of this island nation would never be the same.
- As you might have guessed, the origins of tempura, in general, and peixinhos da horta, in particular, are rooted in religious observations. The Portuguese would eat these “little fishes from the garden” during Lent when meat was strictly verboten. Sailors often traveled with peixinhos da horta because they preserved for a long time during sea journeys.
- Today, of course, you can find tempura anywhere in Japan and at most Japanese restaurants around the world. And if you’re in Portugal, peixinhos da horta is a fairly common item on restaurant menus. Order some and bite into the crispy fried green bean knowing that you’re taking a bite into culinary history.
Where in Lisbon to try peixinhos da horta
If you are looking for where to eat while in Lisbon and want to take a bite of crispy peixinhos da horta, here are four places to try.
Tascardoso
For over three decades Tascardoso has been frying up excellent peixinhos da horta on a small street just off Praca do Principe Real.
Coelho da Rocha
Set in Campo de Ourique, Coelho da Rocha is a meat-lovers paradise but also does one of the city’s best versions of peixinhos da horta.
Pateo do Patisco
With a few locations sprinkled around Lisbon, Pateo do Patisco has a menu of classic Portuguese snacks, including little fishes from the garden.
Tapa Bucho
Serving up small plates in the Bairro Alto, Tapa Bucho is a perfect place to snack on peixinhos da horta and other Iberian delights.
Want to taste more of Portugal’s culinary history—beyond just peixinhos da horta in Lisbon? Join us on our Ultimate Lisbon Food & History Tour of Baixa & Chiado to uncover the flavors that define the city. From sipping cherry liqueur in a 130-year-old shop to tasting the best pork sandwich in town and discovering Portugal’s love affair with canned fish, this immersive tour takes you deep into the heart of Lisbon’s food culture. And yes—you’ll end on a sweet note with one of the best pastéis de nata in the city.
