When thinking about eating in Lisbon, images of bacalhau (codfish) and seafood usually come to mind, but Portuguese cuisine also relies on the land. And, it’s fair to say that Portugal has a special love affair with pork. Pork is everywhere, from the hearty, belt-busting stews and sausages to the sandwiches. We love each savory dish, but there is something extra special about the bifana, a marinated pork sandwich. Keep reading to discover where you can find the very best bifana in Lisbon!
All about bifanas
It’s true that the Portuguese love to snack. Between breakfast and lunch, or lunch and dinner, tables are set with small plates of croquettes, cheeses, cured meats, seafood, and/or sandwiches. Snacks, or petiscos, are an excuse to break from work and a reason to catch up with family and friends. An appetite may be the most important thing you bring when traveling to Portugal.
Bifana is just as comforting to locals as pizza is to American college students. It’s just as ideal alongside a cold beer. And a bifana is the perfect snack before heading home after a long night out.
What is bifana?
Bifanas come from Vendas Novas in the rural Alentejo region. This is a region of wines and cork, olive trees, rice fields, and the black Iberian pig. In some parts, the farms and vineyards stretch as far as the eye can see. Now, you can find bifanas everywhere, especially in the cities.
Our senses sing every time we bite into a quality bifana. That these sandwiches are cheap, easy, and quick-to-make snacks makes us love them even more.
What makes this simple sandwich taste so good?
The answer varies depending on who you ask. Each cook, Portuguese mom, or Vovó (Portuguese grandmother) will have their own trick and suggest that theirs is the best. Some bifana recipes call for adding mustard to the marinade, but each recipe will be unique.
According to Milena Santos, owner of Bifanas & Companhia in Vendas Novas, “the secret lies in the finding the ideal combination of meat and papo seco (bread).” She also states that (the bread) was “designed exclusively to welcome a good (piece) of pork loin.” Of the margarine-based sauce, the other ingredients are part of what Milena calls a “secret of the gods.”
Milena’s mouthwatering recipe is a step-by-step process that starts with slicing the pork loin and then pounding it until it’s very thin. The meat is then fried in the secret sauce. After frying, the pork is placed inside the papo seco and served to the customer.
The bifana sandwich: A beloved local snack
Be forewarned: the bifana that you eat in Porto, Braga, and other northern cities will be different than the bifana you eat in Lisbon, the Alentejo, and the Algarve. Head north if you prefer smaller pieces of pork slow-cooked in pots of spicy broth. The broth is then drizzled into each sandwich.
In Lisbon, on the other hand, expect bigger cuts that have been grilled or fried after marinating overnight in an aromatic, spice-infused mixture. Bifanas in Lisbon are served with the option of yellow mustard. Some cooks use beer or wine in the sauce or marinade. Nearly everyone adds plenty of garlic (another favorite national ingredient).
Our picks for the best bifana in Lisbon
Simple, wonderfully flavored, and cheap, bifana is an ideal snack during the day and late at night. Luckily, you are never too far from a delicious bifana stop in Lisbon! Here are just a the places we think warrant the title of best bifana in Lisbon.
Beira Gare
Lisbon’s locals usually beeline to their closest tasca for a bifana, but Beira Gare (Praça Dom João da Câmara, 4) is boasted as one of the best spots in the Portuguese capital.
Bifanas & Companhia
And, of course, there are the bifanas from Bifanas & Companhia at Vendas Novas. If you’re craving a foodie adventure as much as a juicy piece of seasoned pork inside a slightly toasted roll, we recommend making the hour drive from Lisbon.
Café Boavista
In addition to Bifanas & Companhia, another restaurants that get a lot of attention are its neighbor Café Boavista (Rua da Boavista, 68, Vendas Novas). It’s a delicious option in its own right.
Casa das Bifanas
A great central option, Casa das Bifanas (Praça da Figueira 7A) makes the perfect pit-stop for a delicious bifana at any time of day.
O Trevo
O Trevo (Praça Luís de Camões, 48) is a beloved local spot. Even the late Anthony Bourdain fell under O Trevo’s pork-infused spell.
A transitioning classic
Head into Lisbon’s Bairro Alto in the evening or at night, and you can order a simple bifana from almost any tasca. They’re normally served with the same thick roll of bread and alongside a bottle of yellow mustard (similar to what you see served with hot dogs and hamburgers in the USA). A few tascas even serve them with cheese or a fried egg!
We know the saying “if it’s not broke don’t fix it” but there are a few twists that we can’t help but drool over. And even though the bifana is as simple a recipe as one gets, today’s influences are taking it to another level.
Now and then, restaurants will serve their bifanas with a variety of bread and pastries. And even though the bifana is a pork-lovers dream, vegetarians can now enjoy them too. At Ao26 – Vegan Food Project in Lisbon, the “bifanas” are 100% plant-based.
No Lisbon foodie experience would be complete without sinking your teeth into a hearty bifana, and our Tastes & Traditions of Lisbon Tour is no different. That’s just one of several fabulous bites you’ll enjoy throughout a morning of gastronomic delights and insider tips that will help you eat like a local throughout Portugal!
