Bologna is one of the most underrated cities in Italy. That said, its beauty is renowned: with a skyline of medieval towers, the oldest university in Europe, miles and miles of arcaded walkways, pretty piazzas, and plus-sized churches, it’s easy to love this city of nearly 400,000 people. And yet, when tourists come to Italy, many of them gravitate between the big three: Florence, Rome, and Venice. And they ignore Bologna. Maybe that’s a good thing because if you’re heading to La Grassa, “The Fat,” as the city is nicknamed, you won’t have to wait in lines or jockey for a table at your favorite restaurants.
Speaking of which, the other reason to come to Bologna: the city is arguably one of the best places to indulge in food in Italy. They don’t own ragù here, but they probably could. Plus, there is tortellini, prosciutto from nearby Parma, green lasagna, Parmigiana, mortadella, and ample amounts of other deliciousness.
So, if you’re in or coming to Bologna soon, do yourself a favor and come hungry. Here are the top 10 restaurants to stuff your face in Bologna.
Our picks for the best restaurants in Bologna
Ahimė
Bologna has long leaned into its traditional cuisine and old-school restaurants, leaving little room for contemporary cuisine. But Ahimė, which puts modern twists on Italian fare, is one place we should all be embracing. The young chefs here are wizards in the kitchen. Located near the Mercato delle Erbe, the plastic-free restaurant also uses vegetables from its own garden and the organic, free-range meat comes from its own farm. The all-organic wine list is a good one.
Drogheria della Rosa
If you need a pasta fix or you’re aching for a delicious traditional meal, Drogheria della Rosa will cure you. Housed in an old pharmacy, the tonics here are now wine. The prescription is a plate of zucchini blossom-stuffed tortellini. There is no menu at Drogheria. The waiter will recite what’s on offer at your table. It’s often based on what’s in season, so expect market-fresh deliciousness.
I Portici
Michelin-starred I Portici does an admirable job of mixing traditional and modern cuisine. And with delicious results. Set inside the Eden Theatre, the soaring ceilings and ornate wall and ceiling moldings make for a dramatic setting in which to eat small-portioned dishes with molto flavor. There are a few different multi-course, prix-fixe options to choose from.
Ristorante Diana
One of the most iconic restaurants in Bologna, Diana has been going strong since 1919. The white tablecloth atmosphere attracts locals and tourists alike who pack the place for its famed tortellini in brodo, tagliatelle alla bolognese, and risotto alla Parmigiana. Be sure to request a reservation (via their website) far in advance.
Salumeria Simoni
This family-run salumeria is one of the best spots in Bologna to park yourself and graze on some salumi and charcuterie. They make their own mortadella so make sure to add that to your order. If you want something more substantial or you need a pasta fix, a couple of doors down is the family’s proper restaurant, Simoni Laboratorio.
Enoteca Storica Facciolo
Located smack in the center of the historical center, Enoteca Storica Facciolo is a handsome wine bar that focuses exclusively on natural wine. The walls are lined from floor to ceiling with wine bottles hailing from the top to the tip of the boot. For the indecisive, stick to the local region, Emilia-Romagna, and you can’t go wrong. Food options include a great selection of local salumi and cheeses plus some heartier pasta dishes like lasagna verdi.
Trattoria da Me
This popular and celebrated trattoria has been churning out Bologna classics since 1937, but it was when Elisa Rusconi, the chef/owner, took over the kitchen when Trattoria da Me really upped its game. The menu refreshingly strays from tradition, offering cheese ice cream, Thai-style fried chicken, and a tea-smoked slow-cooked egg as appetizers. For the pasta course, don’t skip the tortellini-like dumplings filled with a meat stew served in a slightly spicy tomato sauce. For something heartier, the tender veal liver is excellent.
Vagh in Ufezzi
Run by husband and wife Antonella De Sanctis and Mirco Carati, this quasi-hidden osteria has a comfortable no-frills vibe about it. The menu at Vagh in Ufezzi is taped to the wall every night. The menu changes regularly but expect to find staples like tagliatelle alla Bolognese and variations on the theme of crescentine—the fried bread pillows that are endemic to Bologna.
Vicolo Colombina
Set down a narrow alleyway in the historic center, Vicolo Colombina serves up traditional fare with some surprising twists. The highlight of the pastas is the tortellini in a creamy parmesan sauce. And for the secondi, or meat dishes, don’t ignore the braised pork cheeks in a luscious celeriac puré. The wine list sticks to the Emilia-Romagna region and is quite thoughtfully curated.
Da Cesari
This rustic, traditional restaurant is the place to point yourself when you have a hankering to tuck into a bowl of hearty pasta. Da Cesari has the kind of timeless ambience that makes you want to stay a while: wood paneled walls with shelves holding bottles of wine and there are long communal tables with folksy tablecloths. If there was one place to come hungry and order the whole course—antipasto, primo, secondo, dolce—this would be the spot to do it. The long wine list here is also impressive.
Don’t miss out on the opportunity to discover the flavors of Bologna on our Tastes & Traditions of Bologna: Food Tour with Market Visit! We’ll take a deep dive into Bologna’s cuisine, including multiple pasta dishes.
David Farley is a West Village-based food and travel writer whose work appears regularly in the New York Times, National Geographic, BBC, and Food & Wine, among other publications. He’s the author of three books, including “An Irreverent Curiosity: In Search of the Church’s Strangest Relic in Italy’s Oddest Town,” which was made into a documentary by the National Geographic Channel. You can find Farley’s online homes here and here.
