{"id":16957,"date":"2018-12-21T20:29:06","date_gmt":"2018-12-21T20:29:06","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/devourlisbonfoodtours.com\/?p=1936"},"modified":"2022-05-05T17:33:51","modified_gmt":"2022-05-05T17:33:51","slug":"salt-cod","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/dev.devourtours.com\/blog\/salt-cod\/","title":{"rendered":"Behind the Bite: Salt Cod"},"content":{"rendered":"

This post is part of our Behind the Bite<\/a> series, deep dives into the dishes that we can\u2019t stop thinking about.<\/em><\/p>\n

Portugal may be known for delicacies that come straight from the sea, but its most famous seafood is far from fresh.<\/h3>\n

If you\u2019ve spent any time in Lisbon, you\u2019ve probably encountered a common menu item that pops up everywhere from street food stands to swanky restaurants. It\u2019s called bacalhau<\/em>, salt cod, and if there\u2019s one fish that represents Portuguese cuisine, this is it.<\/p>\n

\"Salt<\/p>\n

What is bacalhau<\/em>?<\/h2>\n

The literal translation of bacalhau<\/em> is salt cod, meaning codfish that has been heavily salted and dried to preserve it. You can buy it all over Portugal in markets and grocery stores, rock solid and ready to withstand even the hottest Lisbon summer\u2014no refrigeration required.<\/p>\n

Before it’s cooked, the dried fish is rehydrated by soaking in water for several hours\u2014even days\u2014and then shredded or sliced. Some people like to say that there are 365 ways to cook salt cod\u2014one for each day of the year. Others claim that the Portuguese have at least 1,000 ways to serve it.<\/p>\n

\"Pasteis
Deep-fried pasteis de bacalhau<\/em> are one of the most common ways to serve salt cod.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Salt cod forms the base of dozens of classic dishes, and lots of Portuguese families even eat it for Christmas dinner. It\u2019s so closely linked to the national identity that many people never think to question its ubiquity. But upon taking a closer look at its history, bacalhau<\/em> becomes even more interesting\u2026<\/p>\n

The origins of salt cod in Portugal\u00a0<\/span><\/h2>\n

One of my favorite things about Lisbon is the seafaring spirit<\/a> that suffuses the city\u2014and the country, for that matter.\u00a0It\u2019s no wonder, considering that Portugal is located right on the edge of mainland Europe, and that many of its most famous historical figures were sailors and explorers.<\/p>\n

Those explorers were the ones who introduced salt cod into Portuguese cuisine, after discovering vast amounts of the fish near Newfoundland and Norway. Yes, you read that right: Portugal\u2019s most iconic seafood isn\u2019t locally sourced, and never has been. You won\u2019t find any cod swimming along its coasts\u2014so why is it such an enormous part of the local cuisine?<\/p>\n

\"Norway
Much of the salt cod consumed in Portugal is still imported from the northern waters of Norway.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Back in the 1500s, salting and drying fish was the best way to preserve it for future use. But fish that have too much oil and fat in their flesh\u2014like sardines, for example\u2014aren\u2019t ideal, as these substances keep the salt from preserving the fish.<\/p>\n

Cod, however, have very low levels of oil and fat, making them the perfect portable source of nutrition. When Portuguese sailors started bringing bacalhau <\/i>back home, it was plentiful and cheap\u2014and within a few decades, it was firmly entrenched in the national culinary identity.<\/p>\n

Where does salt cod stand today?<\/h2>\n

Good salt cod isn’t exactly cheap anymore\u2014prompting some people to forego the real stuff in favor of frozen substitutes<\/a>. In fact, you might wonder\u00a0why the Portuguese would spend so much money to import fish all the way from Scandinavia, when they have direct access to some of the world\u2019s freshest seafood.<\/p>\n

In this case, cultural significance simply trumps convenience and cost. For better or for worse, bacalhau<\/em> is an essential item in every bakery, caf\u00e9 and household in the country.\u00a0It comes in all forms imaginable, but there are a few variations that you’ll find again and again. These are the\u00a0mainstays and must-tries that should be at the top of your list.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

The best bacalhau<\/em>-based dishes<\/h2>\n

First up, pasteis de bacalhau.<\/i> These simple treats consist of shredded salt cod, potatoes, eggs, parsley and onion, shaped into spheres and deep fried. They\u2019re a staple of every neighborhood bar, and figure prominently on the menus of even the fanciest eateries. Lisbon’s aptly named Casa Portuguesa do Pastel de Bacalhau<\/a> adds a unique twist with Serra da Estrela cheese.<\/p>\n

Another common dish is bacalhau \u00e0 Br\u00e1s<\/em>, in which pieces of salt cod are tossed with potatoes, scrambled eggs and black olives. It may sound like a weird combination, but one bite and you\u2019ll become a believer. There\u2019s something about the way the flavors mix that\u2019s totally addictive\u2014trust me. To try a trendy twist on this recipe, head to Casa Lisboa<\/a>.<\/p>\n

\"Bacalhau
A gourmet take on bacalhau \u00e0 Br\u00e1s<\/em> by chef Lu\u00eds Gaspar. Photo credit: Casa Lisboa<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Finally, there\u2019s bacalhau com natas<\/em>. If you thought bacalhau \u00e0 Br\u00e1s<\/em> was rich, wait until you try this concoction of salt cod, potatoes, onions and cream. The ingredients are layered and baked in the oven until the top turns nice and brown. You won\u2019t find many dairy-based main dishes in traditional Portuguese cooking<\/a>, but this is undoubtedly a classic.<\/p>\n

If you want to sample some of the best salt cod in Portugal\u2014in all its many forms\u2014I suggest you pay a visit to A Casa do Bacalhau<\/a>, just outside Lisbon. Or if you’d rather\u00a0try cooking it yourself, check out this recipe for creamy salt cod croquettes<\/a>!<\/p>\n

What bacalhau<\/em> means to me\u2014a personal story<\/h2>\n

The first time I sampled Portuguese salt cod, it was actually kind of an accident. I was in a tiny caf\u00e9 in the back of a shopping center, witnessing a weekly fado<\/a> gathering. There was no one else under the age of 60 in the room, and certainly no other foreigners.<\/p>\n

I was trying my best to enjoy the music while also ignoring my imposter syndrome and staying out of everyone’s way. At one point, the old man sitting next to me ordered a basket of pasteis de bacalhau… <\/em>and then passed me one on a napkin. No words were exchanged: just a deep-fried ball of fish and a knowing smile.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\"Pasteis
Traditional pasteis de bacalhau<\/em> in all their crispy, golden glory.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

I won’t lie; it was not the most delicious thing I’d ever eaten.\u00a0But what I remember most about that little croquette (and the next one he insisted on sending my way) was not its taste or texture. It was the feeling I had while eating it: the feeling of being generously welcomed into someone else’s world, even when I felt like I had no business being there.<\/p>\n

In a cramped little caf\u00e9, surrounded by people who could have been my grandparents\u2014and who were singing their hearts out in a language I didn’t understand\u2014this man found a way to communicate. To let me know that these people were willing to accept me into their circle for just a few hours. And all it took, funnily enough, was a bit of\u00a0bacalhau<\/em>.<\/p>\n

The significance of salt cod<\/h2>\n

This will always be what I think of when I eat\u00a0pasteis de bacalhau<\/em>:\u00a0the way that food can transcend languages, generations and borders to bring people together.\u00a0Maybe that sounds like a lot of power to place on something so mundane, but I think this is exactly what makes salt cod so significant.<\/p>\n

Are you coming to Lisbon?<\/strong>
\nDon’t waste a single meal\u2014check out our ultimate foodie guide to
\n
where to eat in Lisbon<\/a>!<\/p>\n

At its core, bacalhau<\/em> is a representation of concepts much greater than itself. It not only symbolizes Portugal’s history of maritime exploration and culinary traditions, but also the way that a certain food can take on meaning for a particular place: even if it comes from miles\u2014and oceans\u2014away.<\/p>\n

Learn the story behind more of Lisbon’s most iconic foods on our Tastes & Traditions of Lisbon Food Tour<\/a>. We’ll take you to our favorite places, introduce you to our friends there, fill your belly with the best food & your mind with what it all means to Lisbon today.<\/b><\/p>\n

<\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

This post is part of our Behind the Bite series, deep dives into the dishes that we can\u2019t stop thinking about. Portugal may be known for delicacies that come straight from the sea, but its most famous seafood is far from fresh. 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