{"id":16411,"date":"2019-06-12T10:00:58","date_gmt":"2019-06-12T10:00:58","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/devoursansebastianfoodtours.com\/?p=2303"},"modified":"2019-06-12T10:00:58","modified_gmt":"2019-06-12T10:00:58","slug":"what-is-txakoli","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/dev.devourtours.com\/blog\/what-is-txakoli\/","title":{"rendered":"Behind the Bite: Txakoli"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

This post is part of our Behind the Bite series<\/a>: deep dives into the dishes that we can\u2019t stop thinking about.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

No drink captures the essence of the Basque Country as perfectly as txakoli does. <\/h3>\n\n\n\n

While it may not be the first thing that comes to mind when you think of Spanish wine<\/a>, txakoli (pronounced “cha-ko-LEE”) is more than just a drink throughout much of the region. This wine\u2014which has transformed from a humble peasants’ drink to a highly sought-after variety recommended by some of the world’s top sommeliers\u2014represents Basque culture and heritage in every sip.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

But if you’re wondering, “what is<\/em> txakoli, anyway?”\u2014or even if you’ve already heard of it, but want to brush up on your knowledge\u2014read on as we take a deep dive into one of the most distinctly Basque drinks out there.<\/p>\n\n\n

\"What<\/figure>\n\n\n

Photo credit: Ania Wielechowska, Text Overlay: Devour San Sebastian Food Tours<\/a><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

What is txakoli?<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

To answer that question, let’s take it to an expert. We popped into La Espiga<\/a>, one of San Sebastian’s oldest bars, to chat with our friend behind the bar, Jes\u00fas.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

“Txakoli is a white, slightly sparkling wine made with hondarrabi zuri<\/em> grapes from the Basque Coast,” said Jes\u00fas, who along with his three brothers is part of the third generation that’s kept La Espiga going strong since 1928. “It’s refreshing and easy to drink, with high acidity.”<\/p>\n\n\n\n

For the family that runs La Espiga, as well as for many Basques, txakoli is a drink that brings people together. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

“At my house, we’ve been drinking txakoli since forever,” Jes\u00fas said. “We love it so much that we organize an annual trip to one of the local bodegas for all the txakoli enthusiasts who come to our bar.”<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Devour San Sebastian guide<\/a> Claudia agrees that here in her home region of the Basque Country, txakoli holds a special significance that goes right to the heart of where it was made.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

“For me, as well as for many Basque people, txakoli is a super special wine that’s just like the Cantabrian Sea in many ways. It’s slightly salty, slightly sparkling and chilly\u2014but absolutely fantastic!” Claudia said.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Wondering
Part of what makes txakoli so special is the breezy air from the Cantabrian Sea that forms the northern border of many vineyards. Photo credit: Elkano<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

When we drink txakoli in San Sebastian<\/a>, it’ll usually be Getariako Txakolina, which is the nearest of the three txakoli denominaciones de origen<\/em>. The other two\u2014Bizkaiko Txakolina and Arabako Txakolina\u2014help cement txakoli’s status as one of the most diverse Spanish wines: each of the three D.O.s produces a variety that’s noticeably different than the others in many aspects, from the flavor to the way the wine is poured and served.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

But we’ll get to that in a bit. First, it’s time for a trip back into the past.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The roots of txakoli<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

The inhabitants of the Basque Country have been producing wine for nearly as long as they’ve been speaking Basque<\/a>. The winemaking tradition in the region dates back<\/a> to the days of the Roman Empire, and txakoli specifically has been made since at least the 15th century<\/a>, according to documents found in Hondarribia. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

For the next 400 years or so, txakoli was relegated to the status of a simple farmers’ and fishermen’s wine, often drank in no-frills caser\u00edos<\/em>, or workers’ accommodations. It wasn’t until 1989 when the first txakoli denominaci\u00f3n de origen,<\/em> D.O. Getariako Txakolina, was created, helping bring this age-old drink to the forefront of the wine world. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"What
Despite txakoli’s rising popularity in recent years, its best accompaniments are often simple, like anchovies or Gilda pintxos. Photo credit: Ania Wielechowska
<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Txakoli today<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Situated in the idyllic, gently rolling hills of Getaria facing the Cantabrian Sea, the family-run winery Elkano<\/a> singlehandedly represents the evolution of txakoli perhaps better than any other name in the game. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

The Zimmermann-Alkorta family has been producing txakoli since 1830, but shot to prominence after the reopening of their new and improved bodega in 2012. Here, they work tirelessly to produce two equally delicious but very distinct txakolis: Elkano and Juan Sebasti\u00e1n. Despite both falling under the D.O. Getariako Txakolina umbrella, there are a number of differences between the two wines that create a completely unique drinking experience.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The eponymous Elkano is your classic txakoli. After the grapes are harvested, destemmed, pressed, and macerated, they’re fermented until they gain the right amount of body. From there, all that’s left to do is filter, bottle, and drink the wine.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"What
The finished product: a bottle of Elkano txakoli. Photo credit: Elkano<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Their trademark special variety, Juan Sebasti\u00e1n, is where things get interesting. The first part of the process is much the same as that of Elkano. But after the initial fermentation period, the wine is stored in special deposits for several months to continue aging. From there, it gets stirred every week with its own lees, or sediment, a technique known in the winemaking world as batonnage<\/a>. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

“This leaves us with a txakoli that has a fuller body and a completely different taste than the normal Elkano,” said Nerea Zimmermann, who along with her parents and brother helps keep the winemaking tradition going strong at Elkano. “The [Juan Sebasti\u00e1n] txakoli takes more than a year to make, from the time the grapes are harvested until the wine goes on the market.”<\/p>\n\n\n\n

What both txakolis do<\/em> have in common\u2014as well as the overwhelming majority of the wines produced across all three D.O.s\u2014is its color. Characterized by its pale golden hue, txakoli is, in most cases, a white wine. But look hard enough and you’ll also find red and even ros\u00e9 versions\u2014the latter of which is especially popular<\/a> in the overseas market.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Grapes
Hondarrabi zuri<\/em> grapes on the vine at the Elkano vineyard. Photo credit: Ania Wielechowska<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Know your D.O.s<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

So you’ve found a promising-looking Basque bar\u2014or maybe you even went the extra mile and booked a vineyard tour<\/a>\u2014and are ready to try txakoli for yourself. But before you start to sip, there are a few other things to keep in mind, all of which have to do with the various denominaciones de origen<\/em> of txakoli.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

As we mentioned earlier, txakoli is made in three distinct D.O.s<\/p>\n\n\n\n