{"id":15457,"date":"2019-08-23T07:54:03","date_gmt":"2019-08-23T07:54:03","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/devourparisfoodtours.com\/?p=2623"},"modified":"2019-08-23T07:54:03","modified_gmt":"2019-08-23T07:54:03","slug":"hidden-paris-passageways","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/devourtours.com\/blog\/hidden-paris-passageways\/","title":{"rendered":"Hidden Paris: Passageways"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Welcome to the Passage du Grand Cerf!<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

It\u2019s one of the prettiest covered passageways of Paris, tucked away in the second arrondissement. This iron and glass arcade from 1825 houses 20 or so boutique shops and businesses, a few offices, and apartments. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

The Passage du Grand Cerf, like many other hidden Paris passageways, is many things. It\u2019s a private shortcut through the narrow Parisian backstreets; it\u2019s a shelter from the rain and the elements; it\u2019s a quiet place to shop and wander. And in essence, that\u2019s what it\u2019s always been: a space for Parisians to cut across the city, to do some window shopping, and to go about their day without worrying about a sudden downpour. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Suffice it to say that the passageway itself is almost the same as it was in 1825\u2014it\u2019s the rest of Paris that\u2019s changed. <\/p>\n\n\n

<\/figure>\n\n\n

History of the secret passages<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

The Passage du Grand Cerf<\/a> used to be one of a network of more than 150 passageways providing a welcome respite from the hostile rues<\/em> of post-revolution Paris. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

In 1825, when it was built, the surrounding streets were dark and dirty. Roads were not paved, and there was no waste collection or sewer system. In the rain, the streets became a mire of human, horse and household muck! <\/p>\n\n\n\n

The streets at that time were also narrow, winding, and difficult to navigate, often ending in a random cul-de-sac or a dangerous dead end. Paris was still in political turmoil after the Revolution, so clashes between the lower classes and the controlling forces created pockets of violence and crime.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The passageways provided respite from daily life in 19th century Paris. They were areas of pleasure: paved interior streets, lined with boutiques, sporting decorative facades. Plus, they were covered from the elements\u2014and the contents of the morning chamber pot! <\/p>\n\n\n\n

At the end of each passage there was a short hop over a muddy street and allez-hop!<\/em> into the next. They created another world: a peaceful place for a stroll, sheltered from the hurly-burly of street life.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Paris’ network of hidden passageways feels almost stuck in time. Photo credit: Benjamin Claverie<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Window shopping, then and now<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

The covered passageways changed the lives of everyday Parisians. People could navigate the city more quickly: delivering messages, attending to business and getting to and from work. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

More importantly, the passageways granted a social space in a city inhospitable to middle-class women. Now they could leave their homes without running the risk of ruining their long skirts.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Window shopping also became a leisure activity. The flaneur<\/a><\/em>\u2014a French literary figure who wanders around the city, drifting from shop window to street corner with no real purpose\u2014also made his first appearance. The role of the flaneur <\/em>is to be, to observe, to take it all in. And that\u2019s what we\u2019re still doing in these easy-to-miss arcades in the first, second and ninth arrondissements. <\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Come for a wander, do your own bit of window shopping, and stop for a drink in one of the many great bars and restaurants in this picturesque setting that welcomes wanderers from all over town. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Here\u2019s our list of the most beautiful hidden Paris passageways.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Each passageway has its own unique feel and look. Photo credit: method.cosmo<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

The most beautiful hidden Paris passageways<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Note<\/strong>: Passageways and galleries are privately owned. They are generally closed on Sundays, and after 10 p.m. throughout the week.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

1. Passage du Grand Cerf<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

In this passageway, all the shops are unique. There\u2019s a bespoke glasses shop, still in the same spot since 1880; a boutique with rustic decorations for home and balcony (we\u2019re in Paris, remember); a jeweler working on a handmade collection; and a savonnier<\/em>, an artisanal soap shop, with soaps made in every color, scent and substance imaginable. Even the pork fat soaps smell surprisingly good.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Foodie find<\/strong>: Skip over to GAG<\/a> (which stands for gras\u2014<\/em>a.k.a. fat\u2014alcohol and gluten), situated in neighboring Passage du Bourg Abb\u00e9, for a great selection of natural and biodynamic wines and great home-cooked food.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Passage du Grand Cerf is situated in an elegant building in Quartier Montorgueil. Photo credit: koronis.at<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

2. Passage des Panoramas<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

This<\/a> is one of Paris\u2019s oldest passageways, which opened in 1800. It\u2019s also arguably the busiest. The many restaurants that have made this passage home provide a bazaar of signs and smells, color and activity. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Foodie find<\/strong>: Check out Coinstot Vino<\/a>, one of the oldest natural wine establishments in the city. Expect an education with your glass! Or if you\u2019re after something a bit different, pop into Adar<\/a>, a fusion of Middle Eastern flavors cooked up by some of Paris\u2019s most promising young chefs.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Passage
Passage des Panoramas brings all the vibrancy of a typical Parisian street under one roof. Photo credit: jmdigne<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

3. Galerie Vivienne<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

One of the more visually impressive passageways\u2014complete with mosaic floors, murals and a recently restored glass roof\u2014this passageway is home to high-end fashion brands. Galerie Vivienne<\/a> has been the location for many a Jean-Paul Gaultier fashion shoot, and even a runway show or two. This passage also boasts a couple of art galleries and antique shops\u2014perfect for window shopping, or picking up a signature French piece of your own!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Foodie find<\/strong>: Stop off at Legrand Fils et Filles<\/a>, a wine bar<\/a> established in the 1880s, with more than 300 references. Peruse their \u00e9picerie\u2014<\/em>a kind of general store of fine produce\u2014and pick a bottle straight off the shelf to enjoy in their luxurious shop. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Galerie
The attention to detail in the Galerie Vivienne is nothing short of breathtaking. Photo credit: Joe deSousa<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

4. Palais Royal<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

The original covered shopping experience in Paris is le Palais Royal<\/a> just next to the Louvre. At the time of its inception in the late 18th century, this gallery was a hub for artists, writers and thinkers of the day. The ground floor was home to shops and artists’ studios, whereas the entresol<\/em> (the beautiful arched windows between the ground and the first floor) was a hub for women practicing the oldest trade in the world! <\/p>\n\n\n\n

These days, soaring rent prices mean that a lot of the shops are converted into offices or indeed empty. However, the space still makes for a peaceful stroll in some grandiose 18th century galleries and gardens, a stone\u2019s throw from the Louvre. It\u2019s also worth visiting for its beautiful garden alone.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Foodie find<\/strong>: Just around the corner, step into Willi\u2019s Wine Bar<\/a>, opened by Anglophone wine enthusiasts in the 1980s. Here, you\u2019ll find an enormous selection of French classics, and food served all day.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

5. Galerie Vero-Dodat<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

This<\/a> is the shortest passageway on our list, but in no way the least important. Its neoclassical style, black and white tiled floor, and marble columns make it uniquely luxurious and charming. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

The private art galleries, high-end fashion stores and stamp specialist shops give this passageway a rare feeling between the dusty and forgotten, and the upmarket sleek. It\u2019s a one-off place, with a totally unique feeling.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Foodie find<\/strong>: Keeping one foot firmly in the past, step into le Caf\u00e9 de l\u2019Epoque<\/a>, a traditional French brasserie still with its original tiled floor, zinc bar and antique mirrors. Despite its proximity to the Louvre, this brasserie manages to keep its authentic feel. The place is usually packed full of both locals and very French waiters serving tiny glasses of wine. <\/p>\n\n\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Welcome to the Passage du Grand Cerf! It\u2019s one of the prettiest covered passageways of Paris, tucked away in the second arrondissement. 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